ROUTE: Jackson Hole to Dubois, WY
DISTANCE: 88 miles . . . "exactly similar" to yesterday's distance
WINDS: Light headwind to start, turning to strong tailwind to kick us into Dubois
DISTANCE: 88 miles . . . "exactly similar" to yesterday's distance
WINDS: Light headwind to start, turning to strong tailwind to kick us into Dubois
WEATHER: Clear, crisp, and sunny but chilly to the first SAG Stop 34 miles out; then windy and cold at the summit where there was still snow
TERRAIN: Flat at the outset and along the valley, climbing intermittently over next 20 miles, then mostly a long descent into Dubois
TOTAL CLIMBING: 6,917'
TERRAIN: Flat at the outset and along the valley, climbing intermittently over next 20 miles, then mostly a long descent into Dubois
TOTAL CLIMBING: 6,917'
RIDE OVERVIEW: Mike wore himself out racing from photo op to photo op (he took over 300 photos yesterday), so I'm posting the website today. I really had a hard time choosing the photos to include because Mike took so many excellent ones. Remember, tho, that you will be able to order the CD of the trip's photos at ride's end. I, too, am "tarred" so don't know how clever I'll be, but here's the day. . . Susan
Everyone got on the road anticipating a spectacular day of scenery, and they weren't disappointed. Every cyclist dreams of a day like this. Even though it was an 88-mile day with climbs to 9,800 feet, it was almost like a rest day. We cruised easily from photo op to photo op all morning-- Tetons, balloonists, cyclist pacelines in ABB jerseys, wildflowers, group photos against mountain backdrops, antelope, elk, ground squirrels and chipmunks, bison, osprey, bear. Bear? Yes. Cov saw a small black bear that she estimated to be about 3 years old; Gary encountered an elk right beside the road. Even the climbs were made easier by tailwinds, but after we crossed the divide, it was mostly downhill and a 30 MPH kicking tailwind to the motel. Riders were all smiles when they got to Dubois.
Everyone got on the road anticipating a spectacular day of scenery, and they weren't disappointed. Every cyclist dreams of a day like this. Even though it was an 88-mile day with climbs to 9,800 feet, it was almost like a rest day. We cruised easily from photo op to photo op all morning-- Tetons, balloonists, cyclist pacelines in ABB jerseys, wildflowers, group photos against mountain backdrops, antelope, elk, ground squirrels and chipmunks, bison, osprey, bear. Bear? Yes. Cov saw a small black bear that she estimated to be about 3 years old; Gary encountered an elk right beside the road. Even the climbs were made easier by tailwinds, but after we crossed the divide, it was mostly downhill and a 30 MPH kicking tailwind to the motel. Riders were all smiles when they got to Dubois.
The route on departure was spectacular. We rode out on highway 89N/26E on a nice smooth shoulder. After clearing town, passing the National Elk Refuge, and climbing a small grade, we rounded a bend, and wham! the Grand Teton Mountains smacked our senses silly. I've been in the Tyrolean mountains, the Alps, hiked the Jotunheimen mountains of Norway, and have been in or on most of the mountain ranges in this country, but none makes such a powerful impact . . . perhaps because these rise from such a flat plain and are so close. As Kumalo says in Cry the Beloved Country, "It is lovely beyond all singing of it." On our right we had Jackson's Hole, a grassy plain that supports uncountable wildlife, an Elk refuge, wetlands, and ski resorts. On our left, we had the Tetons, their gray, rocky peaks mantled with glaciers and towering majestically as they have for thousands of years.
The range was formed by the Ice Age and by earthquake movement as the mountains were pushed up and the Jackson Hole area sank to form what you see in these pictures. As a result of efforts of Horace Albright (the superintendent for Yellowstone National Park) and John D. Rockefeller (noted philanthropist), the Teton range and six small lakes in the surrounding area were declared a protected area in 1929. But that plan failed to safeguard Jackson Lake, the Snake River, and the Jackson's Hole Sagebrush Flats. In 1943, to protect the valley resources, F.D.R proclaimed Jackson's Hole a National Monument. Finally in 1950, President Truman united the two plans into The Grand Teton National Park to protect this vital natural resource from urban development. Can you imagine this raw beauty marred by houses, street lights, and tourist traps dotting the slopes? Thanks to the foresight of these leaders and visionaries, this is not the case, and these wonderful natural phenomena were protected for all to enjoy.
We see several things out here we don't see back east. Today we saw signs warning of grizzly bears in the area. The sign at right indicated that food storage was required. . . meaning don't leave food out unprotected. After seeing these signs, several of the smart riders started pairing up with someone slower than themselves, reasoning that they didn't have to try to outrun a grizzly, they just had to be faster than the other rider. That's why Team Clydesdales has Paul in its membership. He's the bear bait. He stops a lot to take photos and drink in the magnificent scenery. I wonder if the team has allowed for the fact that Paul may be faster than usual if a grizzly chased him . . .hmmm. This may be worth further study.
Our route today took us over the Continental Divide and included a major climb to 9,658'. Actually the climb was in two parts with a 3- or 4-mile respite as the road traversed a high valley before the final ascent. The slope wasn't as severe as yesterday's ascent to the Teton Pass, but it was a good challenge for most. Someone said that it almost seemed like a downhill after yesterday. Nah, I wouldn't go that far. Climbing any slope at 9,000 feet for miles at a stretch gets the heart pumping and sets the muscles afire.
The range was formed by the Ice Age and by earthquake movement as the mountains were pushed up and the Jackson Hole area sank to form what you see in these pictures. As a result of efforts of Horace Albright (the superintendent for Yellowstone National Park) and John D. Rockefeller (noted philanthropist), the Teton range and six small lakes in the surrounding area were declared a protected area in 1929. But that plan failed to safeguard Jackson Lake, the Snake River, and the Jackson's Hole Sagebrush Flats. In 1943, to protect the valley resources, F.D.R proclaimed Jackson's Hole a National Monument. Finally in 1950, President Truman united the two plans into The Grand Teton National Park to protect this vital natural resource from urban development. Can you imagine this raw beauty marred by houses, street lights, and tourist traps dotting the slopes? Thanks to the foresight of these leaders and visionaries, this is not the case, and these wonderful natural phenomena were protected for all to enjoy.
Our route today took us over the Continental Divide and included a major climb to 9,658'. Actually the climb was in two parts with a 3- or 4-mile respite as the road traversed a high valley before the final ascent. The slope wasn't as severe as yesterday's ascent to the Teton Pass, but it was a good challenge for most. Someone said that it almost seemed like a downhill after yesterday. Nah, I wouldn't go that far. Climbing any slope at 9,000 feet for miles at a stretch gets the heart pumping and sets the muscles afire.
I cycled to the first SS and then took over the SAG from Box at the top of the Divide. Of course there was the usual rejoicing and picture taking to capture the moment (above). Talk was of it being all downhill to New Hampshire. Mike says he hates to break it to you, but you've still got the Black Hills in South Dakota and the Berkshires in the east. Maybe riders will be so seasoned and strong they won't notice . . think? But for now, everyone enjoyed the beautiful downhill that followed. It was too beautiful to "let her rip," but with tailwinds and mostly downhill all the way to Dubois from the SAG, few could bring themselves to stop.
Many self-supported cyclists passed us going west today. Most were in small groups or independent, though they formed loose alliances during the day and in the evenings. They were using Adventure Cycling's Trans America maps and had started in Virginia. One guy I talked to (and whose picture I obligingly took at the Continental Divide sign) was carrying 85 pounds of stuff. That's "weigh" too much! Said he had begun the trip in May.
The terrain on the east side of the Divide was again spectacular (sorry, I just don't have a varied enough vocabulary to use anything else), albeit different. The mountains turned to big rollers and were covered with sage instead of the fir trees that were abundant on the initial descent. We also picked up some pretty stiff tailwinds as the afternoon warmed up. Every cyclist lives for a day like today . . . zooooooom! Bill G. came off the mountain so fast on his recumbent that he looked like a motorcycle. Almost sounded like one too as he trundled round the curves.
About 10 miles out of Dubois, there is a memorial to the Scandinavians who once worked this area making ties for the nation's railroads during the mid 1800s. They were called Tie Hacks. According to the memorial, they were professionals who hewed ties (from Lodgepole Pines) precisely 7 inches X 7 inches X 8 feet as required by the tie inspector. They were paid $0.10 a tie and on a good day they could hew 30 ties . . . that's approximately $3.00 a day. By the way, their room and board was about $1.50/day . . . leaving precious little for their hard efforts. It took 2,500 ties to build 1 mile of railroad . . . that's a lot of Lodgepole Pines! And a lot of work, but in the 1800s, their efforts supplied ties for the Chicago and Northwestern Railroad, which required tracks across Wyoming.
As we neared Dubois, it looked like two different worlds on either side of the road. On the right were green mountains with ranch houses, horse corrals, and the romantic Wind River, which we'd been following most of the latter part of the day. On the left, the landscape was identical to the painted desert. The mountains were multicolored with shades of red and yellow. It was amazing how the difference was so stark with just the road dividing the two landscapes.
Dubois is a small western town with rustic buildings common to this area. They have planked sidewalks, each plank branded with the names of the person or organization who paid for the particular board. Riders scouted up the America by Bicycle plank, which we purchased last year (see below right). Although the town's population is only about 900 residents, they have several motels and seem to be a bit of a tourist town with several gift shops, art studios, and many cafes. One motel on the way into town is definitely unique to this area. You don't see many hitching posts and corrals included with the room when you stay at a Best Western anywhere else . . . but it might catch on.
Well, it's time to put an end to another day. These pages are getting too big to do in a day. I hope you are enjoying following our progress. See you tomorrow when we get to Riverton. We are looking forward to more adventures.
Many self-supported cyclists passed us going west today. Most were in small groups or independent, though they formed loose alliances during the day and in the evenings. They were using Adventure Cycling's Trans America maps and had started in Virginia. One guy I talked to (and whose picture I obligingly took at the Continental Divide sign) was carrying 85 pounds of stuff. That's "weigh" too much! Said he had begun the trip in May.The terrain on the east side of the Divide was again spectacular (sorry, I just don't have a varied enough vocabulary to use anything else), albeit different. The mountains turned to big rollers and were covered with sage instead of the fir trees that were abundant on the initial descent. We also picked up some pretty stiff tailwinds as the afternoon warmed up. Every cyclist lives for a day like today . . . zooooooom! Bill G. came off the mountain so fast on his recumbent that he looked like a motorcycle. Almost sounded like one too as he trundled round the curves.
About 10 miles out of Dubois, there is a memorial to the Scandinavians who once worked this area making ties for the nation's railroads during the mid 1800s. They were called Tie Hacks. According to the memorial, they were professionals who hewed ties (from Lodgepole Pines) precisely 7 inches X 7 inches X 8 feet as required by the tie inspector. They were paid $0.10 a tie and on a good day they could hew 30 ties . . . that's approximately $3.00 a day. By the way, their room and board was about $1.50/day . . . leaving precious little for their hard efforts. It took 2,500 ties to build 1 mile of railroad . . . that's a lot of Lodgepole Pines! And a lot of work, but in the 1800s, their efforts supplied ties for the Chicago and Northwestern Railroad, which required tracks across Wyoming.As we neared Dubois, it looked like two different worlds on either side of the road. On the right were green mountains with ranch houses, horse corrals, and the romantic Wind River, which we'd been following most of the latter part of the day. On the left, the landscape was identical to the painted desert. The mountains were multicolored with shades of red and yellow. It was amazing how the difference was so stark with just the road dividing the two landscapes.
Dubois is a small western town with rustic buildings common to this area. They have planked sidewalks, each plank branded with the names of the person or organization who paid for the particular board. Riders scouted up the America by Bicycle plank, which we purchased last year (see below right). Although the town's population is only about 900 residents, they have several motels and seem to be a bit of a tourist town with several gift shops, art studios, and many cafes. One motel on the way into town is definitely unique to this area. You don't see many hitching posts and corrals included with the room when you stay at a Best Western anywhere else . . . but it might catch on.
HEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:
* "Keep that up! [to a cyclist panting up a hill] I haven't heard heavy breathing in over two weeks!"
* "I may be slow, but I'm getting more for my money."
* "I feel youthfully exuberant!"
* [From an old guy in a pickup, for real] "Where're you guys goin'?" ["NH"] "NH? That's Connecticut? Is that past Oklahoma?"
* Liisa: "Josh, would you look at my drive train? It doesn't shift up? What should I do?" Josh: "Don't shift."
* "Keep that up! [to a cyclist panting up a hill] I haven't heard heavy breathing in over two weeks!"
* "I may be slow, but I'm getting more for my money."
* "I feel youthfully exuberant!"
* [From an old guy in a pickup, for real] "Where're you guys goin'?" ["NH"] "NH? That's Connecticut? Is that past Oklahoma?"
* Liisa: "Josh, would you look at my drive train? It doesn't shift up? What should I do?" Josh: "Don't shift."
STORY HEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:
Jeff told the following story about an incident that happened yesterday: "I was grinding up Teton Pass and eventually tired to the point where I dismounted my bicycle. Just as I started walking, my cell phone rang. It was my wife. 'Hi Honey, Where are you?' she asked. I told her that I was climbing Teton Pass and had just started to walk. 'Walk?' she responded in an alarmed voice. 'After all the time and money we spent on your training? You can't walk! You've got to get back on your bike!'" So I did as I was told and pedaled to the summit. Odd she should call and 'inspire me' just at that moment."
Jeff told the following story about an incident that happened yesterday: "I was grinding up Teton Pass and eventually tired to the point where I dismounted my bicycle. Just as I started walking, my cell phone rang. It was my wife. 'Hi Honey, Where are you?' she asked. I told her that I was climbing Teton Pass and had just started to walk. 'Walk?' she responded in an alarmed voice. 'After all the time and money we spent on your training? You can't walk! You've got to get back on your bike!'" So I did as I was told and pedaled to the summit. Odd she should call and 'inspire me' just at that moment."
DUH! OF THE DAY: Someone asking, " I wonder if the cows appreciate the beauty of this scenery?"
PHOTOS OF THE DAY:
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| Now let's see. If I throw a leg over each will I have a quadcycle? |
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| Lynn suffered all day from an inability to breath easily and a "lack of air" at the higher altitudes, so was pleased to find an air hose at the lunch stop. |
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| Did they misspell "head"? Just kidding, Josh. You're anything but an air head. |
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| To heck with this. We're walking to the motel. |
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| Mike, our fearless leader, always inventive, hopped a jackalope to Dubois when his bike broke down. |
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| Ever wonder where they get the water for the car wash? |
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| Rory & Larry thank their lucky stars that male homo sapiens are antler-less . . . and don't contain any other body parts--including heads--coveted by hunters or for lawn decoration. |
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| Looks like a grrrrrreat place for lunch to me. Step through and open up this steer's sinus cavity. . . |
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