ROUTE: Riverton to Casper, WY
DISTANCE: 120 miles
WINDS: Headwinds first third, screaming quartering winds out of the southwest last two-thirds...gusts to 45!
DISTANCE: 120 miles
WINDS: Headwinds first third, screaming quartering winds out of the southwest last two-thirds...gusts to 45!
WEATHER: Chilly and threatening rain first third; sunny, warm and windy second two-thirds
TERRAIN: 60 miles of gentle climbing then rolling into Casper
TOTAL CLIMBING: 2400 feet
TERRAIN: 60 miles of gentle climbing then rolling into Casper
TOTAL CLIMBING: 2400 feet
RIDE OVERVIEW: Today's one of those days that test bicyclists' mettle. The riders have been dreading today even more than the 116 desolate miles into John Day. We were forecast to have temperatures in the high 80s with the chance of a morning storm. That, coupled with the 120 miles we were riding, were factors that had the potential to stretch the comfort zone of even the most experienced out here. Mike was afraid we'd be in for a really tough day as the winds were supposed to be out of the NNE. Whatever the case, Mike told the riders that these are the days that they would remember when they told their stories after the ride. He explained that it's all part of the total package: Some days are easy, some days are tough. Whatever riders face each day, they will endure, and be better for it.
Mike reports: "The terrain was desolate to say the least. I didn't see one dwelling after we left town through the first 40 miles except for the small town of Shoshoni . . . barely a spot on the road. The landscape is so wide open that it's hard to describe it to anyone. The term 'vast' comes to mind, but it's not nearly descriptive enough to give one an accurate picture of the area. I reminds me of Arizona or New Mexico . . .high desert covered with sage with not much life to be seen anywhere aside from desert critters. I haven't seen any wildlife or domestic animals for quite some time. As desolate as it is, there were still a few spots that had interesting formations. As we neared Casper, we began to see cattle and antelope scattered across the landscape. . . tough land for us city slickers. About 26 miles out, I happened to catch Richard as he rode by these sculptures that have been carved by the wind over thousands of years (above left)." Mike
Today started out overcast but a balmy 60 degrees at 5:00 a.m. After breakfast at 5:00 (yawn), we quickly loaded the luggage and everyone hustled to get on the road to enjoy the few hours of cool temperatures they expected today. The first 60 miles of today's route rose steadily 1200 feet to about 6200 feet. Not all of it was climb; there were several nice downhill sections that gave everyone a bit of a rest, but overall we were going up all morning. The morning looked to be shaping up nasty as predicted--riders had headwinds, and rain streamed grayly from the black clouds above--always to the south or east of us, however, nothing but a few drops where we were.
But (oh happy day), after the first Sag Stop, the clouds and storm blew off and left riders dry and happy. As the storm cleared out, the wind direction shifted to a strong quartering wind with gusts to 45 mph. By late morning, the wind was screaming out of the southwest making for some challenging bike handling to say the least. But all in all, any westerly wind was a relief after the morning's plod into the headwind! The winds remained southwesterly for the rest of the day, too, which made the day much easier than it could have been . . . easy enough to make everyone smile at the end of it. Mike, especially, was smiling because everyone handled the crosswinds and got to the motel safely.
But (oh happy day), after the first Sag Stop, the clouds and storm blew off and left riders dry and happy. As the storm cleared out, the wind direction shifted to a strong quartering wind with gusts to 45 mph. By late morning, the wind was screaming out of the southwest making for some challenging bike handling to say the least. But all in all, any westerly wind was a relief after the morning's plod into the headwind! The winds remained southwesterly for the rest of the day, too, which made the day much easier than it could have been . . . easy enough to make everyone smile at the end of it. Mike, especially, was smiling because everyone handled the crosswinds and got to the motel safely.
At staff meeting the night before, Mike & Barb told stories about the "nothingness" we were to experience on this day--120 miles of no shade, no trees, no buildings, no people. I was assigned SS#1 and SS#3. Since I had parboiled myself the day before while riding and botanizing with Jim, I stopped at Wal Mart on the way out of town and bought an easy-up canopy. The first SS was on a dirt road in the middle of nuttin'. But the day turned chilly, windy, and overcast, so I didn't need the canopy. SS#3 at mile 91 was set up in front of an abandoned building, again in the middle of nuttin'. But, by this time it was early afternoon and we had the WIND! Evelyn said that when it first blasted in, she thought the wind was a plane it was so loud. Anyhow, the wind was too strong to set up the canopy, so it never got out of its case. I've been told, however, that there will be some more days coming up where it will see some use.
Mike reports: "To say we are out in the middle of nowhere is not stretching it in the least. We pass through 3 or 4 'towns' on our way to Casper but none of them are more than 1 or 2 buildings. SS#2 (Barb in the Box) set up in Hiland where the sign post said population 10. Ten!!! Where? I'm not sure there was anyone within the boundaries of the 'city limits' . . . at least I didn't see anyone. Last year, Barb set up the second SAG in Hiland in the same place, and she was a sight for sore eyes . . . and butts. The only shade she had was under a billboard where the shade kept shifting and getting narrower as the sun moved higher in the sky. You can see her here in her 'sliver' of shade (right)." There's a mini gas station and store in Hiland, run by a middle-aged couple. Since they're the only thing for miles, they get a fair amount of business, and our riders and some motorcyclists increased that even more today. Sadly, later down the road we learned that the medical helicopter we'd seen was for the owner who'd suffered a heat attack shortly after we left. We have no news of his condition, but our prayers are with his family." Mike
Mike reports: "To say we are out in the middle of nowhere is not stretching it in the least. We pass through 3 or 4 'towns' on our way to Casper but none of them are more than 1 or 2 buildings. SS#2 (Barb in the Box) set up in Hiland where the sign post said population 10. Ten!!! Where? I'm not sure there was anyone within the boundaries of the 'city limits' . . . at least I didn't see anyone. Last year, Barb set up the second SAG in Hiland in the same place, and she was a sight for sore eyes . . . and butts. The only shade she had was under a billboard where the shade kept shifting and getting narrower as the sun moved higher in the sky. You can see her here in her 'sliver' of shade (right)." There's a mini gas station and store in Hiland, run by a middle-aged couple. Since they're the only thing for miles, they get a fair amount of business, and our riders and some motorcyclists increased that even more today. Sadly, later down the road we learned that the medical helicopter we'd seen was for the owner who'd suffered a heat attack shortly after we left. We have no news of his condition, but our prayers are with his family." Mike
About 15 miles before the last SAG we came upon a small dot called Hell's Half Acre. It's only an RV park, a house, and a restaurant, but it was a welcome sight and the food was fabulous. Almost everyone stopped to cool off and get a bite of lunch. It was just like an old west scene, sort of, as everyone parked their bikes instead of their horses on the hitching post in front of the restaurant. The restaurant sits right on the edge of a scenic gorge that Indians used to slaughter buffalo years ago. They must have faced budget issues even in those days as they would stampede a herd over the cliffs to get meat for the winter...probably to save the cost of expensive arrows. Today the gorge is a beautiful, peaceful sight that belies its intended use.
Inside HHA, the riders enjoyed Buffalo Burgers with enough meat in them to provide protein aplenty to march an army . . . just what riders needed today. When Mike asked how much an ice cream would be, the owner snapped back, "$234.50." He explained that ice cream is at a premium out here. Since he has the only ice cream within 200 miles, I guess he can ask whatever he wants. Three of the riders said $234 was a bargain. I ordered a mushroom-smothered burger to go, but we were only 15 miles from where I needed to set up the last SS, the frontrunners were booking it with the tailwind, and the kitchen was sloooow (Mike said he didn't imagine that anyone living out here knew the meaning of "fast." Why hurry?), so I took off before the order was up. Josh, in Red, delivered the burger to me a little later--still hot. Now that's what I call premium service for the service.
When I got to the the SAG Stop, the frontrunners were waiting for me, and Jeff's wife and daughter were waiting for him! They planned on enjoying his day off with him. When asked how they'd found him here in the middle of nowhere, they said it was easy, it was the only building between Mills and Hell's Half Acre on the route. The riders quickly signed in and then took to the road again while the wind was strong at their backs. Mark, who was Float today, said that he'd been cruising along at 35 mph.
SS#3 was set up in the dirt in front of an abandoned building, a rusting out 70s automobile, and a house trailer that obviously housed a family who were not home. The metal swing set blew noisily in the wind, which at times was hard to stand against. Between riders (most of whom had just tanked up at HHA and stopped only briefly to sign in and top off their water) I pondered the lives of this little family so isolated from others. What on earth caused them to live out here? What did the adults do to earn money? Where did they buy their groceries? Where did the children go to school? Who did they play with? Not for the first time, I counted the blessings of my birth.
From SS#3, it was only about 30 miles to Casper. Riders covered that distance in a snap, looking forward to a swim in the motel pool and a greatly appreciated rest day.
Inside HHA, the riders enjoyed Buffalo Burgers with enough meat in them to provide protein aplenty to march an army . . . just what riders needed today. When Mike asked how much an ice cream would be, the owner snapped back, "$234.50." He explained that ice cream is at a premium out here. Since he has the only ice cream within 200 miles, I guess he can ask whatever he wants. Three of the riders said $234 was a bargain. I ordered a mushroom-smothered burger to go, but we were only 15 miles from where I needed to set up the last SS, the frontrunners were booking it with the tailwind, and the kitchen was sloooow (Mike said he didn't imagine that anyone living out here knew the meaning of "fast." Why hurry?), so I took off before the order was up. Josh, in Red, delivered the burger to me a little later--still hot. Now that's what I call premium service for the service.
When I got to the the SAG Stop, the frontrunners were waiting for me, and Jeff's wife and daughter were waiting for him! They planned on enjoying his day off with him. When asked how they'd found him here in the middle of nowhere, they said it was easy, it was the only building between Mills and Hell's Half Acre on the route. The riders quickly signed in and then took to the road again while the wind was strong at their backs. Mark, who was Float today, said that he'd been cruising along at 35 mph.SS#3 was set up in the dirt in front of an abandoned building, a rusting out 70s automobile, and a house trailer that obviously housed a family who were not home. The metal swing set blew noisily in the wind, which at times was hard to stand against. Between riders (most of whom had just tanked up at HHA and stopped only briefly to sign in and top off their water) I pondered the lives of this little family so isolated from others. What on earth caused them to live out here? What did the adults do to earn money? Where did they buy their groceries? Where did the children go to school? Who did they play with? Not for the first time, I counted the blessings of my birth.
From SS#3, it was only about 30 miles to Casper. Riders covered that distance in a snap, looking forward to a swim in the motel pool and a greatly appreciated rest day.
P.S. Did anyone but me see the sign for Poison Spider Road on the way into Casper? How would you like that for an address?
HEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:
- "Anybody else have chafing problems?" "One other rider, I think. Mike's looking at her seat." "Mike's looking at her saddle sores!!??" "No, at her bicycle seat! The man provides all sorts of services for riders, but saddle sore inspection isn't one of them."
- "With this oil on my chain I can now ride like the wind." "Yeah, but the wind is going in the opposite direction!" [Obviously early in the day]
- "Oh look, the first SAG Stop is right near a big litter box." [SS#1 was on a dirt road near piles of fine gravel]
- "Gee Dan, your helmet always has such a rakish look." "Yeah, it's GQ. Style Man has nothing over GQ."
- "I only pedaled three times in the last 15 miles."
- "I put on my brakes a mile before the SAG, and I still had trouble getting the bike to stop!"
- [When the wind helps you feel like a real man:] "Gee, I felt like a young man today. Could've peed across the road if I tried.
DUH! OF THE DAY: (Really a Duh of a few days back.) Andrew M. stopped for ice cream and when he started out again realized that he was missing his sunglasses. Went back inside and asked everyone if they'd seen them. "Yep," was the reply, "they're hanging around your neck!"
DUH OF THE DAY NO. 2: "I've got to wear sunblock so I don't get windburn."
RANDOM ACTS OF KINDNESS:
#1 & #2--Dan suffered two broken spokes and three flats today (a record so far for this ride I think), but for the second time, he was the recipient of a random act of kindness when a flatbed pickup stopped and offered him a ride while he was carrying his bike after the second spoke broke. Earlier in the week, Dan and several others stopped at a Subway when they got to town. The man ahead of them asked what they were doing, and they told him about Across America North and our ride from Astoria, OR to Portsmouth, NH. When it came time to pay, they found that the man had quietly paid for all of their sandwiches and left.
#3--Robert took a fall today when the shoulder suddenly disappeared and he found himself in soft gravel. We learned of this when a pickup stopped at SS#1 and told us that "we had a rider down back aways" and that we might want to take the van back. [I radioed Red, and the docs patched up Robert who suffered a small cut on his elbow and minor road rash.] An aside to the kindness: Mike almost broke his neck climbing out of the van later in the day when he slipped on the step Robert had been sitting on while the docs cleaned his elbow. Seems Robert had so much bag balm on his butt that he made the van step a slippery hazard for the rest of the trip.
#4--Ooooops! Diane left her glasses on her bed in Boise. They were delivered to her today at the Holiday Inn in Casper--by a couple who live in Casper but were staying in the Boise motel, and who volunteered to take them to Diane.
PHOTOS OF THE DAY:
#4--Ooooops! Diane left her glasses on her bed in Boise. They were delivered to her today at the Holiday Inn in Casper--by a couple who live in Casper but were staying in the Boise motel, and who volunteered to take them to Diane.
PHOTOS OF THE DAY:
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| Oliver Twist (a.k.a. Gerard) says, "More . . . please." |
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| Pam is all smiles after learning that with today's advanced technology, surgical removal of that nasty hump is possible |
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| Bill B., Ron, Bob, and Gary ("The Hammer and His Nails") have done just as the sign challenges as they've streaked down the highways in their pursuit of the Atlantic Ocean. |
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| OK, there's only 1 highway on the route today, so what's all the discussion about the route sheet? |
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| In the early morning, everyone was trying to get into a pace line to combat the headwind. |
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| Yep, look up the word "desolate" in your Funk 'n Wagnals and you'll see a picture of this road...minus Evelyn. |
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